The traditional notion of gender roles is increasingly seen as an outdated concept which belongs in the dustbin of history rather than in modern public discourse. But whether we like it or not, the issue of gender equality still occupies a significant place in many segments of society, and the restaurant industry is no exception. The panel discussion entitled “Women do (not) belong in the kitchen”, under the moderation of Antonija Blaće, brought together some of the most prominent women in the region—chef Ana Roš; creator of the food vlog #sLANA KUHArica, Lana Klingor Mihić; and chef and founder of the Chiarin tanjurić brand, Nastasja Chiara Petrić—to present their experiences and views on the current position of women in gastronomy, the problems they face and predictions for the future.
“I remember the looks I got at the beginning of my career. It wasn’t easy and I felt I had to work harder than anyone to succeed. I was on Masterchef and studying at Teachers’ College when I rolled up my sleeves and embarked on this adventure with a colleague. I grew up a lot during my first restaurant experience. I saw the importance of the human factor. And when that factor was absent, I didn’t find it comfortable to work. Maybe men generally lack a more humane approach,” said Nastasja Chiara Petrić describing her experience.
The seventh-best chef in the world and the only woman on the list, Ana Roš is responsible for the magical story of the Slovenian restaurant Hiša Franko, awarded two Michelin stars, whose cuisine is based on an indigenous, local and sustainable approach to food preparation. Roš shared some of her experiences from her professional career.
“We live in a very traditional society. Although in the 21st century women have become politicians and leaders, I believe that there is still a certain amount of prejudice and skepticism towards top female chefs. If you ask me what my working day looks like, I am responsible for a ‘family’ of 40, who come to me with problems that need to be solved. After I get home, I still have many more responsibilities. It is precisely because of such dynamics that many women are giving up their professional culinary careers,” she said.
These top chefs and professionals agreed that it is necessary for women to stop feeling guilty about their ambition, but also that it is crucial to accept a reality in which it is not possible to achieve everything they might want. “You can have a career, but first you have to accept the rules of the game. You can’t have everything,” said Roš. The idea of merging one’s private life and career is more accepted today than ever before, but the journey is not over yet, the panelists agreed. “Sometimes you have to say ‘no’. Change does not start with men, but with us. When you want to change something, you have to start with yourself,” said Lana Klingor Mihić. “Social networks are the strongest communication channel we have today. When I was a 20-year-old singer it was the media that constructed the impression of me and it was very difficult to refute. But today the situation is different. Through modern communication channels I can respond and communicate directly with my 130,000 followers. I can even say that my responses are seen by more people than the original post. Today, we have a greater opportunity to express ourselves,” Klingor Mihić emphasized.
One of the more intriguing questions was the one about authority in the kitchen, but also in business in general. How much harder is it for women in the kitchen and how to establish authority regardless of gender? “It’s fun, because everyone who looks at me thinks I have high self-confidence, but every time I have to stand in front of my team, I question myself in some way. It all depends on you, there must be no trace of doubt in your decisions and words. Whenever I showed weakness in the past, a problem would arise. One should be direct, and criticize when necessary. As a chef you are not always loved. What matters is being an authority and a leader. I can see how much my team needs me, how much they absorb what I say and how many problems I solve on a daily basis. Authority is not a gift, but a reward for serious work,” said Ana Roš.
The panel was concluded with the thought that women have made great progress, but there is still work to be done. One thing is for sure, women belong wherever they decide to be, and in order to be a good chef, you must first be a good person.
